Tuesday evening (4/29) I attended the Executive Wine Seminar tasting of 2005 White Burgundy 1er Cru's. The event was held at the The Warwick Hotel in Manhattan and was presided over by Robert Millman and Howard Kaplan. This turned out to be a fun and very interesting tasting.
***The following wines were sampled blind, with the results revealed at the end of the tasting***
1- Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru, "Les Champs Gain", Ripe nose, round and rich on the palate. This wine has a lot of glycerin with its creamy texture, but still shows good minerality. A very elegant wine.
2- Vincent Girarden, Meursault, 1er Cru, "Genevrieres"
Subtle nose. Color is a little deeper. Rich on the palate, but with piercing minerality. The flavors are very long and the texture is elegant and smooth.
3- Jean-Philippe Fichet, Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru, "Les Referts"
Muted nose. Fat and rich. Showed very little mineral at first, but this became more present with air. Soft in the mouth and not as complex. Some sulfur on the nose. Turned out to be very good.
4- Remi Jobard, Meursault, 1er Cru, "Charmes"
First bottle was corked. Second bottle was off. Elegant in the mouth, but both bottles proved to be flawed. Only one person at the tasting enjoyed this wine.
5- Pierre Morey, Meursault, 1er Cru, "Perrieres"
Deep nose dominated by charred oak. Some sulfur at first. Very big and deep in the mouth with good minerality. Very intense in the mouth. A very good wine, but shows noticeable oak.
6- Bouchard Pere & Fils, Meursault, 1er Cru, "Perrieres"
Subtle nose. Very pretty and elegant in mouth. Very well balanced. Rich in glycerin, but finishes with excellent minerality. Outstanding.
7- Paul Pernot, Meursault, 1er Cru, "Les Pucelles"
Sulfur on the nose and on the palate. Deep color. Rich and warm in the mouth. Bacteria-like taste. Seemed flawed.
8- Patrick Javillier, Meursault, "Les Tillets"
Very pretty nose. Cool fruit flavors in the mouth. Very elegant. Lacks minerality and is short on the finish.
9- Henri Boillot, Meursault, 1er Cru, "Genevrieres"
Some sulfur on the nose. Tangerine fruit. Very full and rich, yet excellent minerality. Long flavors. Big wine, but not heavy. One of the best at this tasting.
10- Domaine Leflaive, Pulingy-Montrachet, 1er Cru, "Les Pucelles"
Typical Leflaive nose, which must be the type of oak which they use. The fruit is very concentrated on the center of the palate, but the wine is rather light. I would never guess this for being a Pucelles. Good, but very disappointing.
11- Jean Noel Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru, "Les Caillerets"
Tight nose. Big, rich and mineral in the mouth. The flavors are long and this wine shows more fruit than most at this tasting, but it is one-dimensional. Very powerful.
12- Bernard Morey, Pulingy-Montrachet, 1er Cru, "La Truffiere"
A rich wine, but little minerality. This is a powerful wine, but it is also one-dimensional.
13- Yves Boyer-Martenot, Meursault, 1er Cru, "Genevrieres"
More fruit on the nose and palate. The texture is mouth coating, but some alcohol shows through on the palate. Almost fat, but finishes with excellent minerality. This wine has the most complexity of the group.
Conclusions:
- 2005 has produced many rich, full-bodied wines, but some felt too fat and one-dimensional. The best wines of the vintage combine the rich textures with strong minerality.
- Meursault appears to have shined in 2005, partically the Genevrieres vineyard. Perrieres is usually held in higher regard, but the Genevrieres in this tasting were just as good, if not better.
- 2005 is a very good vintage, but when tasted next to the same wines from 2006 (as I did in France this past July) most seem one-dimensional. The wines made from the top producers in Meursault appear to be the exception.
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