Tomato Pie Night

A good friend works for a company that distributes the wines of Louis Latour and he brought one of their wines over for dinner last night. The wine was a 2006 Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, which we drank while munching on white pie from the original Delorenzo's Tomato Pies in Trenton (Hudson Street). My expectations were not very high for the wine based on my past experiences with various Latour bottlings, but this bottle was really nice. The wine lacked the strong minerality that I expect in a Corton-Charlemagne, but it was full bodied and rich. I would not call this a great a example of what a Corton-Charlemagne should taste like, but it was a very good wine.

Burgundy's mighty hill

The hill of Corton

The hill of Corton is one of the most impressive sights in the Cote d'Or and the white wines produced from its steep slopess are justly praised. The red wines, however, are often misunderstood and underrated. The terroir is diverse and not all of the plots planted with red grapes are of equal quality. Therefore, Corton is often cited as one of the leading canidates that should lose its grand cru status. While some of the vineyards on the hill are probably not deserving of their ranking, there are lieu-dit that can produce wines of the highest caliber. Clive Coates places Le Clos du Roi alongside La Romanee Conti, La Tache and Le Musigny in his classification of Burdundies greatest vineyards. Les Perrieres, Les Renardes and Les Bressandes can also make great bottles and these vineyards surely deserve grand cru status. The best red wines of Corton are some of the greatest values in Burgundy and they should not be overlooked.

Morey's hidden gem

Alain Jeanniard comes across as a very thoughtful, unassuming, yet confident man. Those are qualities that many top winemakers seem to possess. While totally unknown in the U.S., Jeanniard has recently begun to receive attention in England. The British critic Steven Spurrier took notice of this new producer at a trade tasting in the spring of 2008. Mr. Spurrier wrote "Alain Jeanniard, a domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis and new to me, showed tight, intellectual wines with a superb Chambolle 1er Cru Les Combottes that rivaled the Clos des Lambrays on the next table for half the price."

Alain Jeanniard

In 2000, Alain Jeanniard left behind a career in industry and returned home to begin putting together a small domaine. Through the renting of vineyards from his family and some shrewd purchases, Alain has formed an estate totaling four hectares. The domaine, whose first vintage was 2004, annually produces less than 2,000 cases from its tiny facility located just down the street from the Domaine des Lambrays. The winemaking is a blend of modern and traditional practices. After being harvested by hand, the grapes are completely de-stemmed. The vinification of the must takes place at 30 degrees Celsius and the juice is then aged in 20% new oak. Batonnage is performed once a month. I visited the domaine on March 20th of this year and tasted several of the 2007 cuvees from barrel. The 2006s had already been bottled.

1- Hautes-Cotes-de-Nuits, blanc, 2006 - (15 year old vines) Very fresh on the nose. The wine has a great texture and is full ripe, tropical fruits. A strong blast of minerals comes through on the finish. This wine reminds me of a really good Meursault. Amazing for this level.

2- Bourgogne, Passe Tout Grain, 2006 - (40 year old vines) This wine is very focused and bright on both the nose and palate. The long finish is dominate by red fruits and lively acidity.

3- Bourgogne, rouge, 2006 - This cuvee is sourced from vineyards in Morey-St.-Denis with yields of 35 hectoliters per hectare. The nose is full of elegant red fruits and the palate shows a beautiful earthiness that screams Morey.

4- Hautes-Cotes-de-Nuits, rouge, 2006 - (15 year old vines) Really nice texture. Rich, dark fruits coate the palate. Excellent.

5- Chambolle-Musigny, VV, 2006 - (80 year old vines) Very nice dark berry fruit on the nose. Meidum-full bodied with a long finish.

6- Gevrey-Chambertin, 2006 - (45 year old vines) Very expressive nose of red fruits. Full-bodied, but elegant on the palate. Beautiful wine.

7- Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru, Les Combottes, 2006 - Richer and riper on the palate. The wine is very concentrated, but also elegant. A classic Chambolle.

8- Morey-St.-Denis, 1er Cru, Les Chenevery, 2006 - Very soft and rich in the mouth. The long finish is full of earthy, red fruits.

9- Hautes-Cotes-de-Nuits, blanc, 2007 - (Barrel sample) Not as rich as 2006, but nicely balanced. Good mineral finish.

10-Bourgogne, rouge, 2007 - (barrel sample) Nice color. Deep and structured on the palate. Long and mineral. 10% of the stems were included.

11- Hautes-Cotes-de-Nuits, rouge, 2007 - (barrel sample) Awesome for the appellation. Very ripe and full. Really good.

12- Morey-St.-Denis, 2007 - (barrel sample) Very ripe and soft on the palate. Beautiful wine.

13- Gevery-Chambertin, 2007 - (barrel sample) 10 barrels were produced of this wine. More concentrated then the 2006. Really good potential.

14- Vosne Romanee, 2007 - (barrel sample) 10 barrels produced. The nose of red fruits and spice is classic Vosne Romanee. The flavors are long and silky. Beautiful.

15- Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru, Les Combottes, 2007 - (barrel sample) Very fresh and bright. Good weight.

16- Nuits-St.-Georges, 1er Cru, Les Damodes, 2007 - (barrel sample) This vineyard borders Vosne Romanee. Great concentration. Red fruits are combined on the palate with bright acidity. The finish is full of minerals. Very good.

17- Morey-St.-Denis, 1er Cru, Les Chenevery, 2007 - (barrel sample) Really good. Strong mineral quality to the wine. Beautifully balanced.

18- Pommard, 1er Cru, Les Saussilles, 2007 - (barrel sample) Very fresh nose. Full-bodied on the palate and slightly rustic on the finish. Really good potential.

When not occupied with own estate, Alain spends his energy working at a prestigious part time job. The Hospices de Beaune entrusts him with the task of making two of it grand cru cuvees, Mazis-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche. Such experience should come in handy in the years to come as Jeanniard's domaine grows to include more renowned vineyard sites. While not yet sought after by collectors, Alain Jeanniard is quietly producing some of the Burgundy's most exciting wines.

Montrachet thought of the day

Le Montrachet

"So the wine of Montrachet should be considered as one of those rare marvels of which the chance of appreciating its perfection is granted to only a chosen few. Let the man who is able to buy a few bottles of the best vintages consider himself fortunate, whatever the price; he will never have paid too much."

Dr. Jules Lavalle, Histoire et statistique de la vigne et des grands vins de la Cote-d'Or (1855)

Champagne Sunday - 8/10

We had soft shells again, but not crabs this time. Twice a year female lobsters shed their shells and begin the process of regrowing a new one. Males do this once a year. Unlike soft shell crabs, the new shell of these lobsters is not edible, but it is easy to break apart with bare hands. No crackers necessary. A really good bottle of Lilbert, Champagne, Cramant, Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs, NV got the evening started with the Olympics on in the background. This is the first time I have tasted a bottle from Lilbert that showed mature flavors. The wine's texture was creamy and a beautiful note of honey showed through on the palate.

For the main event, I opened a Lamy Pillot, Saint-Aubin, Pucelles, blanc. Pucelles is a lieu-dit near the village of Saint-Aubin. It was shocking how good this bottle was. I first became aware of this small producer based in Chassagne-Montrachet when I read that they bottle a Montrachet. Lamy Pillot barrel ferments all their wines and the Pucelles had a beautiful texture. Considering that this vineyard is not a premier cru, the wine's richness was surprising. The fruit was slightly tropical, but not over the top. I loved this wine.

Speaking of main events, I had been waiting all evening to see the 4 x 100 mens relay featuring Michael Phelps. At 11pm, an announcement flashed across the screen that the race would begin in 19 minutes. 'Thank goodness,' I thought sitting on the couch...................I woke up to see a volley ball flying across the screen. Half asleep, I stood up and turned the t.v. off. I walked upstairs and looked at the clock in the kitchen. 1:30am "The relay!" At that second I realized that I had fallen asleep and missed the biggest olympic event of the day. "Wait, I have a DVR," I thought in a moment of hope. Then I remembered that I had turned the t.v. off. The next morning, while making a soy latte, I heard a report on NPR detailing the race. The reporter concluded his segment by saying, "for those in the race and watching, it was an unforgettable olympic moment." Aarghh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Team USA celebrating their victory (2008 Getty Images, Inc.)

A wine of Olympic proportion

The Olympics kicked into full swing last night and I looked forward to watching the great Michael Phelps dominate the competition. I felt like drinking a wine that could match the level of excellence on display, but it was too warm outside to drink a big red. A bottle of Domaine Tempier, Bandol, rose, 2007 that I opened last weekend was corked and I thought this might be the perfect moment to give this legendary wine a second shot. The wine had a typical pale rose color. On the palate, it was rich and full of creamy red fruits, yet not heavy. Many rose are big and alcoholic, while others are delicate and light. Tempier's rose strikes a perfect balance between the two styles. Despite being full-bodied, this wine did not show any alcohol and retained a refreshing feel. Every year I drink a bottle of Tempier and it routinely proves to be my favorite rose of the season. I was able to find a bottle for $32.99, but the full mark-up on the 2007 is $41.99. That is a lot to pay for a wine with a pink appearance, but this wine may well be worth it. Once again Domaine Tempier has bottled a Bandol rose that is close to perfection.

Puligny's forgotten family

Few villages in the Cote d'Or are as famous as Pulingy-Montrachet, home to some of the world's most acclaimed vineyards. Surprisingly, only a small number of the wines bearing the name of the appellation are actually made by vignerons located in the village. For centuries, producers throughout Burgundy have sought the vineyards and grapes from the area, enticing the locals to sell to the highest bidder. Despite this temptation, several families have kept their land and established domaines. The names Sauzet, Carillon and Leflaive have become synonymous with Puligny, but one local clan has remained under the radar. The Chavy family has had roots in Puligny for almost 200 years. In 1976, after years of selling their grapes to negociants, they began to bottle under their own label. Domaine Chavy et Fils soon established itself as one of the finest in the village. However, in 2003, after a family dispute, the estate was dissolved. The brothers Jean-Louis and Alain Chavy, who had jointly run the domaine, went their seperate ways determined to build their own legacy.

Alain Chavy

Chavy-Martin, the offical title of Alain's estate, has the distinction of possessing the deepest cellar in Puligny. Only a handful of domaines in the village are fortunate enough to possess underground facilities due to the high water tabel. The barrels resting in Chavy's beautiful, arched cavern contain a terrific array of the finest premier cru vineyards found in the appellation. In addition to land in the prestigious plots Les Folatieres, Le Champ Gain and Les Pucelles, the domaine owns a precious parcel in Le Clavoillon. Les Pucelles and Le Cavoillon sit adjoined on the slope, but Chavy-Martin is one of only two cellars in Burgundy where you can taste them side by side. Domaine Leflaive owns the vast majority of the 5.59 hectare Le Clavoillon, but the Chavy brothers each claim a small portion, preventing it from being a monopole. The following wines were tasted from barrel while visiting the estate on March 19th, 2008:

1- Bourgogne, blanc, 2006 - Sourced from two vineyards in Puligny, one near Meursault and one just south of Puligny. Very pure and focused. The wine shows good minerality and a long finish.

2- Meursault, 2006 - 15% new oak. The grapes come from the lieu-dit Les Phellans, which sits just below the 1er Cru Les Charmes Dessous on the the Puligny border. A very good wine with a nice balance of richness and minerality .

3-Puligny-Montrachet, 2006 - Very elegant and precise. Terrific quality for this level.

4- Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru, Le Champs Gain - More aromatic and mineral. The flavors are delicate, but the wine shows good length.

5- Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru, Le Clavoillon - Closed on the nose. Bigger, rounder wine in the mouth with excellent minerality. The deep soils found in Clavoillon are have left their imprint on this wine. Really good.

6- Puligny-Montrachet, 1er Cru, Les Folatieres - The most impressive wine on the nose. Full of white flowers and minerals. A beautiful wine that is a classic example of this stony vineyard.

7- Puligny-Montrachet, 2007 - Acidic and hard to taste at the moment.

Alain Chavy does not own land in any of the illustrious Grand Crus that stare down on his domaine, but he is able express the essence of Pulginy through some of its finest premier crus. His winemaking is hands off, and a low percentage of new oak allows the terroir to shine through in these pure, elegant wines. Domaine Chavy-Martin is the latest incarnation of one of Puligny's oldest families and its wines speak loudly of this origin.

My new nickname

I have decided that I need a nickname and from this point forward I will refer to myself as the "Burgschnauzer."

Champagne Sunday - 8/3

This may sound like a broken record, but raw oysters and soft shell crabs were on the menu last night. I am feeling the need to squeeze as many soft shells as possible down my throat before the end of the season. A bottle of Ployez-Jacqmart, Champagne, Marie Weiss, NV was once again utilized to wash down the oysters and it was very good.

I have had a really hard time keeping my hands off the 2006 white Burgundies that have found their way into my cellar. With the fear of premature oxidation hovering like an evil spirit, these newly born bottles have been drained without regret. It is generally accepted that white Burgundies need years in the bottle to reach maturity, but I not sure that I enjoy an aged example more than a young one. Older bottles often reveal layers of complexity that can only come with age, but unlike red Burgundies, which can be very tight in their youth, white Burgundies are often very accessible from the start. While young Bourgogne blancs do not possess the nutty complexity of a well aged example, they can offer a wonderful combination of fresh fruit flavors and minerality. I would love to hold onto a good Puligny and see what happens with time in the bottle, but I have no desire to dump these expensive wines down the drain in 10 years because they have turned into vinegar. Until the premature oxidation issue is fixed, I will be drinking my white Burgundies while they are young and fresh. The alternative of forgoing the pleasures of white Burgundy is not an option.

Needless to say, I had no problem pulling the cork on a 2006, Bachelet-Monnot, Puligny-Montrachet. The wine showed some new oak on the nose, but it was integrated on the palate. The flavors leaned towards tropical, but this is typical of the wines made in this warm vintage. Bachelet-Monnot is a new domaine (2005 was the first vintage) that is producing excellent, full-flavored wines. The village Puligny is a blend of four different AOC vineyards and certainly delivers for the price ($60 full retail).

Clos de la Pucelle

One of Burgundies outstanding 1er Cru vineyards, Les Pucelles borders the northern end of the grand cru Batard-Montrachet. Clos de la Pucelle is a lieu-dit that occupies the northwest corner of Les Pucelles. The Clos, which is a little over one hectare in size, is a monopole of the Puligny estate Jean Chartron.